NYFW TRENDS: Military, Santa Fe, Asia by WGSN

Jason Wu

New York has thrown plenty of trends into the spotlight in the past few days of Mercedes Benz fashion Week but also confirmed the slowing of the fashion cycle that we have been seeing in recent seasons as perennial favourites such as sheath dresses and pencil skirts dominated many runways. Victoria Beckham showed Sunday and proved that she is fast becoming the mistress of the Little Black (or blue or green) Dress. Beckham returned to a fitted silhouette after temporarily abandoning it for spring, although the shorter dresses were allowed the flutter of a softly flared skirt.

Victoria Beckham


The look was a little tougher than usual with shiny black python collars, a military-style dress accessorised with heavy flat black boots, and harness straps on backless dresses.


Victoria Beckham

Away from those classic pieces, autumn/winter 2012/13 looks set to be one that’s very much about colour – with rich shades such as burgundy and pine most popular, alongside supporting shades of ochre and cobalt blue.


Military has been a key trend so far – cut smartly and precisely and a world away from combat fatigues. Instead, New York designers have given us tailored military with understated detailing (especially around buttons) that should be a key influence on the outerwear market later this year.
1960s looks also proved a strong choice for some designers and should prove inspirational for the youth and juniors market. WGSN particularly liked the way Lacoste took the 60s in a subtly sporty direction.


Jason Wu






Another key move on for a trend is Santa Fe – a way to update the Navajo-inspired looks that have been seen worldwide from some seasons. This takes the look and gives it less of a 1970s feel, as interpreted particularly well at Band of Outsiders.
Also bubbling under as a trend is Asia with a few designers drawing on Chinese and Japanese influences. Leather remains a key material for next season – frequently seen in ultra glossy finishes or pieced and panelled with woven/knit fabrics for sleeves, bodices or skirt inserts. It was worked best by Derek Lam, DKNY and Thakoon Panichgul.

Band of Outsiders


Sunday, February 12, 2012 · Categories:
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